History
The magnificent Phulkari, the bridal textile from Punjab, is one of the most renowned handicrafts of the land of five rivers. This floral craft is derived from the terms 'phul' and 'kari,' where phul means for flower and 'kari' refers for art. This art form is most commonly seen on traditional Punjabi dress as a veil/dupatta/scarf/shawl. Historically, this type of needlework has been practised by women from the Eastern and Western parts of the undivided Punjab for many generations. Floral designs created with untwisted silk threads lend richness to this exquisite floral textile. Phulkari are sparsely embroidered pieces, while Bagh (meaning Garden) another category of Phulkari have densely embroidered designs where the base cloth is not seen.
The exact origin of Phulkari is uncertain, however it is believed to be closely associated with numerous kinds of needlework from Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Persia. The traditional Phulkari is embroidered with silk threads on Khaddar, a handwoven cotton cloth. Geometrical motifs and decorations are made by counting threads in this handwoven coarse cloth with plain weave. The use of untwisted silk yarn on coarse cloth gives the needlework a gloss and makes the surface so rich that it appears to be luxurious tapestry. These distinctive textiles are worn and displayed by women throughout Punjab on important occasions like as weddings, festivals, and festivities. This gorgeous textiles is especially precious since it has always been made with love by women, either for themselves or for others. Apart from its usage on weddings, it is also used on auspicious and religious occasions like child birth, karva-chauth, pooja ceremonies etc.. The usage of Phulkari gives a touch of extra colour and richness. For married women it is also considered as a sign of 'Suhag'. The skill of the bride is judged by the number of Phulkaris and Baghs in her trousseau and most importantly the affluence of her family and the women who trained her. Phulkari also reflects the creative talent of women of Punjab. The surroundings and lifestyle including flowers, vegetables, fruits, ornaments, activities etc. have been an inspiration for them to embroider designs on khaddar. As these designs were not printed, hence every piece varied from the other. Women creators have been able to prepare varied Phulkaris-Chobe, Bagh, Nilak, etc. with varied motifs: mor, surajmukhi, kaudi, Bijli, dabba, patang etc. This craft is made with love for the loved ones. With times this craft has evolved lending new meanings for the creators and users.
